On our first morning at Jarnem we walked the 8km loop trail from the campground through the honeycomb domes of Nigli Gap that look like mini “Bungle Bungles”, across an eucalypt woodland to the Jarnem lookout to enjoy the view over the Keep River floodplain, Jarnem escarpment and Miriwoong dreaming trail. The loop took just over 2 hours to complete and we returned to camp to do school work, which went really well!
Camp at Jarnem
Walk to Nigli Gap
Walking through Nigli Gap
Elokin and Hendrix found a cave
Elokin, Nath and Hendrix found a tree to climb
Crossing a creek
View from Jarnem lookout
Hendrix at the Jarnem lookout
Walking down from the lookout
That night we sat around Mary-Ann and Fran’s fire until way too late.
The next morning we struggled to get up. After saying bye to Fran and Mary-Ann, we completed our school work for the day, which went really well again. When it all goes smoothly, we can actually get a lot done.
After lunch we set off to Jinumum for the 3km return walk to see the wet season shelter the Miriwoong people lived in along the Keep River Gorge. A large section of the overhang had fallen to reveal some pretty awesome stone with vibrant colours in lines and waves.
Walking to Jinumum
Jinumum
We completed this walk in just over an hour and headed off to Gurrandalng campground.
From here we completed the 2km loop walk over and around the conglomerate sandstone in just over an hour. This part of the park is rather spectacular, and I know that my photos don’t do it justice.
Hendrix and Elokin in a window at Gurrandalng
Hendrix walking down the steps in the loop walk
Panorama of Gurrandalng
Back at the car we ate Barramundi sandwiches while waiting for the ranger to arrive for the campfire talk. Ranger Lance arrived and set up his projector and we spent the next 2 hours listening intently as he talked and watched the slideshow about the parks flora and fauna, the feral animals, different landscapes and what the Rangers do here.
We managed to catch the tide coming in, but it wasn’t a wave like we expected. It just ran in quickly.
Keep River 6.40am
Keep River 7.34am
Keep River 7.42am
Keep River 7.50am
Keep River 8.08am
Keep River 8.53am
Keep River 6.41am
Keep River 7.34am
Keep River 7.50am
Keep River 8.08am
Keep River 8.53am
We left camp around 9am, and passed two road trains moving slowly on the dirt. We grabbed diesel at the Ord River Co-Op which is the cheapest diesel in Kununurra. We headed back out the other side of town to Packsaddle Road, to the Zebra Rock Gallery. We got to look through the gallery, see a man working in the workshop and Elokin and Hendrix got to feed the fish off the jetty in the Upper Ord. They were catfish and black bream, and one of the dogs loved to stand in the water watching the fish swim and then chase them around. Elokin and Hendrix found it rather amusing. We bought ourselves a bag of unfinished zebra rocks for $25 before heading a bit further up Packsaddle Rd to Oria Orchard where Elokin and Hendrix enjoyed picking their own cherry tomatoes. They picked 500g and they were so delicious, they didn’t make it to town. We got replacement ribs at Coles which we thoroughly enjoyed for dinner tonight with chips.
Popeye dancing
Feeding the fish at Zebra Rock Gallery
Dog swimming with the fish
Elokin and Hendrix picking their own cherry tomatoes
Elokin and Hendrix enjoying picking
At 4.30pm we officially crossed the NT border, which then meant we lost 1.5hrs so it became 6pm rather quickly! We raced the sun to Keep River National Park arriving at the first campground to find it full as the sky turned to red. We then continued to Jarnem campground and arrived just as it was getting dark to take the last camp spot.
Tuesday, 5 August 2014 – Sunday, 10 August 2014 96.2kms
Nath changed the flat tyre for the spare off the van as we realised that our spare rim on the car is dicked from falling off at Hill End and we had forgotten to replace it.
The slash plugged
Nath changing the tyre
We took it for a test drive down towards the river mouth. We didn’t find the mouth, but drove for about 20kms, which was a lot further than we thought we would have to go. When the cracked, dry saltpans started to get sloppy, we turned around and headed back to camp to pack up and move 4kms upriver. By the time we were ready to move, we were once again racing the sun. Our new spot is better though and well worth the move. We have more water in the river and even crocodiles, which means there is fish!
New camp on the Keep River
New camp on the Keep River
On our first morning in our new camp spot as the sun was rising, I was lying in bed while Nath rummaged around in the back of the car to free one of his fishing rods for an early morning fish. All of a sudden there was a raucous on the opposite bank that caught my attention. A big kangaroo came crashing over some fallen trees, landing badly. It picked itself up quickly and continued to bound full pelt towards the river. I started shouting at Nath to “look, look, look”, which of course doesn’t tell him which way to look! The kangaroo made the edge of the river in about 3 big, fast bounds and then jumped as far as it could into the water and went under. I saw on the bank behind it a big golden dingo had stopped high above the water level. It had been chasing the roo and had clearly scared it out of its mind. No sane animal would jump willing as far as it could into a crocodile river! The kangaroo surfaced again and seemed to be trying to swim. I called to Nath that the kangaroo was trying to swim to our side of the river. Within seconds, it started to turn around and head back to the bank closest to it and I saw why…. A huge crocodile had appeared from nowhere and was right behind it. I called out “a crocodile is going to eat the kangaroo” and then there was a splash and both the kangaroo and crocodile were gone. All of this took place in about 15 seconds, from the initial crash of the kangaroo coming down onto the bank to it being taken by a crocodile. By now Elokin and Hendrix had made it onto the bed with me, but both they and Nath had missed the whole scene.
Around lunch time Nath and I were sitting in our camp chairs high on the bank when a reef shark jumped completely out of the water by at least a metre, flipped and then disappeared back into the water. Nath had his eyes shut and missed the whole thing!
Kite
Nath cast netting on the Keep
Cast netting
Evening family fish
The next morning we watched as a huge crocodile swam downstream with a kangaroo or at least part of it, in its mouth. We believe it to be the one I saw yesterday.
Crocodile with the kangaroo
Croc with the kangaroo
Croc with the kangaroo
In the afternoon, the four of us sat admiring the river from our camp chairs high on the bank. On our side, there was not a breath of wind. We looked across and saw the tree tops bending in a strong wind that we could hear. Upon closer inspection, Nath discovered it was a willy-willy moving up the bank.
We caught a mud crab
Nath with the size mud crab
Caught another smaller mud crab
On Friday it was Nath’s Birthday. Something changed and the river was different. We didn’t see a single crocodile anywhere on the banks where we would normally see them or swimming in the river. There was an almost eerie feeling about, it was very bizarre. Nath did lots of fishing off the bank, but the only fish caught were catfish, and a few of them. He also caught a few small mud crabs in the dilly that were all safely released.
Elokin and Hendrix made Nath a boat for his birthday
Using the pork ribs as mudcrab bait
Nath’s birthday cake
On Saturday morning, we watched as 8 big crocodiles headed downriver cruising on top of the water.
Saltie that came to check out our bank
A couple of hours later a big gust of wind blew in and with it came the tide. It came in quickly and got the highest we have seen it and we lost most of our bank. Along with the water came the crocodiles back. The first one to arrive landed on the bank opposite us and through my camera I could see it had food in its mouth. It looked very fat already, but proceeded to put on a huge show for us. It lifted its head up high and began to chop on its meal of kangaroo. It was the same one again.
Big fat saltie with kangaroo in its mouth
Saltwater croc eating kangaroo
Saltwater crocodile eating kangaroo
Saltwater crocodile eating kangaroo
After a few chomps with its almighty jaws, it flicked its tail up as it launched its body out of the water standing on its back legs. It threw its huge head around and landed again.
Again it chomped its food, but didn’t swallow all of it. It began to make its way upriver a short distance, so I decided to follow. While on my way Nath and Elokin began yelling at me that it was doing it again. The three of them got to watch it jump up in the air again, I got to see it eating with its head up in the air again. It then moved up onto the bank, fat and content to lie in the sun.
His slumber was interrupted by another big male croc cruising up to the side of it, laying in waiting. They turned to face each other and the new comer spun to avoid the altercation. Our fat friend chased it off and it left at a speedy pace, tail swishing the water.
White lips making his move
Fatty meeting his gaze
Crocodile altercation
Crocodile altercation
Crocodile altercation
Crocodile altercation
I followed the loser of the disturbance, nicknamed “white lips”, as he headed upriver. Not too far up, he found another male to have a go at. He won that rumble and sent the loser scrambling up and along the bank to get away. On the bank was another smaller croc, and it left as soon as the big guy came close. Wise move I believe. The big guy then slinked onto the bank and lay in the sun. All up, Elokin and I counted 10 big (up to 3+ m) and huge (over 4m) salties lazing on the bank in the sun in just our stretch of river.
Crocodile altercation
Crocodile altercation
On Sunday morning we got up and started to pack down the camper as we had planned on leaving. We had been looking at the river on and off and after a while, Nath discovered that the tide had come in higher than yesterday and in as much time as it took to boil the kettle; somehow we had missed it. Well, with a quick family discussion, we were staying another day to watch it come in tomorrow morning, as we didn’t want to miss the “wave”. With the tide higher than we had seen before, Hendrix was able to fish with a lure off the top bank so he was stoked.
Hendrix and Elokin made a cubby
Crocodile sunning itself
Hendrix fishing off the bank
In the afternoon we went for another drive towards the mouth to see how much the tide had come in there. It was out now so we stopped where the landcruiser was buried in the mud bank for a look. Nath discovered millions of mullet lining the shore so threw the cast net around for some bait. Most of them must have been too small as they were getting out of the net. He did manage to get over a dozen, so that was good.
On Sunday we headed into town for ice-creams and a play at Celebrity Tree park for Elokin and Hendrix given that it is Sunday and all. We then headed back to Ivanhoe Crossing where we set up, had lunch and stayed for the night as we had phone reception, internet and its free.
Family fun at the park
Family fun at the park
Camp at the Ivanhoe Crossing
Rang on Monday morning and managed to get booked in for a new windscreen at 10am. Arrived right on time at Kununurra Smash Repairs and O’Brien Windscreens. Paula and Brendan gave us heaps of useful local information about the Keep River, so it is decided that we will head there this afternoon. Elokin and Hendrix got to do their school work in Paula and Brendan’s treehouse while we waited for the windscreen to be fitted.
Looking through the crack
Treehouse classroom
We found Brumby’s bakery and enjoyed pies for lunch. Gas refills are cheaper at Home Hardware, only $36 for 9kg. The local bakery is the best place for bread as it is $4 per loaf.
On the Weber Plain Road, which is the way to Keep River, we found diesel cheaper than the Gull that we thought was the cheapest. We will definitely be filling up there on the way back. The countryside along this road is very agricultural, but has a spectacular rugged mountain range running alongside it that lights up vibrant red in the afternoon sun. Both Nath and I discovered that this place is very captivating and somewhere that we could easily lose a lot of time.
At some point we crossed the WA/NT border as the Keep River is in NT. We arrived at the causeway on the Keep and drove over it to have a look. We then turned around as our turnoff is before the river on the sweeping bend.
Keep River
On the way to find a camp spot along the river towards the mouth, I could hear a funny noise coming from the rear tyre. As the sun was getting low, I decided it wasn’t worth stopping to check. When I finally got out of the car to check out a creek bed to see if it was dry to cross, I discovered that the tyre was leaking air as we had slashed the side wall. Every time the weight of the vehicle went onto the slash, it opened and air came out. When it went up again, it stopped, so effectively it was a slow leak. We found a spot that was grassy and a good distance away from the river and stopped to check it out. By now the tyre was almost completely flat and the sun had set, so either way, this spot would do for tonight.